Process of making shoes.



J. B. HADAWAY.

PROCESSOF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FIILED NOV. 19. I913- 1,293,'762. I Patented Feb. 11, 1919.

3 SHEET$SHEET 1.

r J. B. HADAWAY. PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES APPLICATION FILED NOV. 19, 1913- Patented Feb. 11,1919.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

1. B. HADAWAY. PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 19. 1913- Patnted Feb. 11, 1919.

3 SHEETS$HEET 3 W /2 A M 2 771 7 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE,

JOHN B. IHZADAWAY, 0F SWAMPSCOTT, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGN- MENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY,

A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 11, 1919.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, JOHN B. HADAWAY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Swampscott, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Processes of Making Shoes; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to a novel process for making shoes.

It is the practice of the present time in assembling and uniting the various parts which go to make up the complete shoe to rely largely upon the skill and judgment of the operator in positioning the parts in proper relation to one another and to the last, and in performing certain operations at particular portions of the shoe.

For example, heretofore the operator has commonly been obliged to rely upon his eye to locate the tip line of the upper at the proper angle to the center line of the shoe with the opposite ends at the predetermined distance from the center line of the toe. Also, the points selected by the laster for drawing or stretching the upper over the last and inserting lasting tacks has been largely a matter of individual judgment and practice. The skiving of the welt, the beginning and ending of the inseam, the polnts at which the welts are butted and the heel seat terminates, generally depend at the present time upon the judgment and skill of the several operators performing these different operations. In order to obtain certain desired effects in the finished shoe, 1t is often necessary not only 'togive a particular shape to some specific portion of the last, but also to accurately position a part of the shoe or to perform some operatlon 1 n exact predetermined relation to such position of the last. Thus to secure the straight line efiect from the shank to the heel seat so that the welt and outsole appear as one integral part, not only must the last be properly shaped at and ad acent the breast line, but the welt sewing operatlon must begin and end and the welt buttlng operation must be performed at exactly the proper points.

heel in the finished shoe.

It has been attempted to avoid the imperfections and variations which necessarily exlst in shoes as assembled and united as above described, and to vprovide a fixed and -definite mark which will enable the operator, particularly the welt sewing and welt butting operators, to perform their respective operations invariably at the proper point, such a mark being applied to the channeled face of the insole at a point corresponding closely to the breast line of the This operation has heretofore been performed upon the insole either before or after it was channeled, and always before attachment to the last. The channeling operation, however, asnow commonly performed, very generally results in a distortion of the insole, sometimes a lengthening and sometimes a shortening, according to the type of machine employed. Allowance is always made for this variation in length of the insole suflicient to cover the possible range thereof, the excess of length being trimmed or rounded from the heel portion after the insole has been placed upon the last. It is obvious that any mark placed upon such an insole prior to the channeling operation, especially if placed a predetermined distance from the eel end thereof, will be thrown out of proper position to a greater or less extent by the changes produced in the insole by the channeling operation. The attempt to avoid this difiiculty by marking the insoles after channeling has not been successful, as it necessitates gaging from the toe instead of from the heel, and furthermore, even if accurately placed after the channeling operation, the distortion and shrinkage which takes place in the insoles during the time which elapses between the marking and assembling operations throws the mark out of proper position, and to such varying amounts that little if any more uniformity of product is obtained than when the operator relies upon his judgment alone in selecting the points for the specified operations.

The present invention seeks to avoid these objectionable features of the prior methods of assembling and uniting shoes, and to provide a method by which the operators are enabled to perform their respective operations upon the shoe with increased speed and accuracy and with uniformityof product or result, yet without the exerclse of the high degree of skill and judgment now required.

With this object in view, the present invention consists, generally speaking, in the introduction of a new step or practice in the process of assembling and uniting shoe parts, viz., in applying to the insole after it has been secured to the last, one or more guide marks located at predetermined positions with respectto the last to guide the operator in performing subsequent operations upon the shoe.

The invention will b readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings and the following detailed description of the machine illustrated therein, and the manner in which it is used to properly mark the insoles.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a side elevation of a machine for marking insoles constructed and operating in accordance with the present invention; Fig. 2 is a front elevation ofthe machine; and Fig. 3 is a plan view.

In the construction shown the last with the insole attached is supported upon a last pin 2 mounted upon a support 4: which is vertically adjustable in a swinging arm 6. The last and attached insole are accurately positioned with relation to the marking device by a gage 8 arranged to engage the heel end of the last directly below the attached insole, so that the soles may be accurately positioned either before or after the heel seat has been trimmed. The heel gage is carried upon a horizontally movable slide 16 mounted in the frame of the machine and provided on its under side with a rack 12 which is engaged by a pinion 1 1 secured to a shaft 16. The shaft is provided at its outer end with a worm wheel 18 engaged by a worm 20 secured to an adjusting shaft 22. By turning the shaft 22 the heel gage may be adjusted for different sizes of soles, and the forward end of the shaft is provided with a dial 24: for indicating the size adjustment. The last and attached sole may be positioned laterally by one of two side gages 26 and 28 mounted upon supports 30 which are adjustably secured to arms 32, so that the lateral position of the side gages may be varied. The arms 32 are mounted upon horizontal pivots 3 1, so that the vertical position of the side gages may be varied as found desirable. The gage 26 is adjusted to properly position the left soles, and the gage 28 to properly position the right soles of the particular style of sole being operated upon.

The device for marking the sole, in the construction shown consists of a marker 36 in the form of a vertical plate arranged to mark the breast line on the insole when positioned by the engagement of the last with the heel gage. The lower corners of the marking plate 86 are sharpened to form knife edges arranged to cut the upstanding lip of the insole, while the intermediate lower edge is adapted to print or emboss a line across the body portion of the insole.

The marking plate is adjusta'bly secured to the front face of a carrier block 38 by a bolt l0 passing through a vertical slot in the plate. The carrier block is secured to the forward end of a lever 42 by a bolt 44: pass ing through a slot in the lever which is ar-. ranged to permit adjustment of the marker longitudinally of the sole. The lever 42 is reciprocated to force the marker against the sole by a cam groove 4C6 formed in a cam disk l8 and arranged to engage a roll 50 on the lever. Marking material may be applied to the lower edge of the marking plate in case a mark is to be printed upon the sole by a roll or brush 52 mounted in a reservoir or tray 54 which is adapted to be reciprocated across the lower edge of the marking plate. As shown, the tray 54 is secured upon the lower end of an arm 56 which is pivoted at its upper end, and the tray is reciprocated by a cam groove 58 formed in the disk 48 and arranged to engage a roll carried by an arm.

tive of any distortion of the sole during the.

channeling or other operation, and will enable the operators to perform their operations upon the shoe uniformly and accurately without the exercise of the high degree of skill and judgment now required.

While in the preferred form of the present invention the mark is positioned by gaging directly from the bare last, it is to beunderstood that the claims, except where so specifically limited, are not to be so restricted, as the present invention in its broader aspects also contemplates gaging indirectly from the last, that is, from some part or portion in definite and predetermined relation to the last, such, for example, as the heel end of the insole after being trimmed, nor is the present invention limited, except where so specifically set forth in the claim, to marking the insole at one particular time or stage in the assembling or uniting operations, but may be performed at any time after the insole is secured to the last and before the outsole is laid.

Having explained the nature and objectof the invention, and specifically described one through the lips and the mark on the insole 10 form of machine in which it may be emto guide the operator in beginning and endbodied, what is claimed is ing the welt sewing operation, and in per- The process of making shoes which conforming the welt butting operation, substansists in securing a channeled insole to the tially as described.

last, cutting the lips of the insole and mark- JOHN B. HADAWAY. ing the body of the insole at a predetermined Witnesses: distance from the heel end of the last and CHESTER E. ROGERS,

then completing the shoe, using the cuts LAURA M. GOODRIDGE.

Cepion of this patent may be obtained for he cents each, by lddrelling the "Gommluioner o! mum,

Washington, D. 0. 

